The Definition: What is Leather.
Many of us are familiar with leather as a material crafted from animals’ hides, yet distinguishing between Genuine and Synthetic remains a challenge.
This brings us to the fundamental question: What does the term “What is Leather” actually mean?
In the simplest terms, “Genuine Leather” refers to leather that is made from real animals hides through a tanning process. However, this term alone doesn’t clarify the specific finishing types and may lead to confusion between real and man-made leathers.
A more precise definition of Genuine Leather: Split or Unsplit, Tanned Animals’ Skins with its Fibrous Structure Intact;
Tanned animals’ skins are like natural artwork, boasting intricate pore patterns and unique marks such as elbow creases. These visual and tactile qualities contribute to leather’s allure and authenticity; like leather elbow patches on a Shetland sweater or timeless jacket. During restoration and repair, preserving these distinctive features are essential, as they enhance the character and beauty of the leather.
Fibrous Structure Intact means the leather’s fibrous layer remains pure and unchanged; natural leather’s tear resistance surpasses synthetic alternative. Skilled curators can use technique like decompression to remove marks and controlled shrinkage to improve its appearance and strength.
Split or Unsplit: Thick leather, typically cow leather which is 5-10 mm thick, is usually split. The top layer becomes as Top Grain Split, while the bottom layer is Flesh Split. If the leather is thick enough, a middle split occurs, further dividing the Top Grain Split, resulting in Drop Split.
Types of Split Leathers.
It’s undeniable that Flesh Split lacks the quality of Top Grain. When a Flesh Split is coated to mimic Top Grain, similar to veneered wood of lower quality, even a leather expert may find it challenging to recognise the difference in quality.
Hence, Split Leather must be clearly labelled and declared to ensure fairness and acceptability to the end-users.
Picture Credit: Colourlock® International.
Top Grain Split is esteemed for its denser fibre and superior tear-resistant. Each type of leather possesses a unique and characteristic grain pattern, with the grain and hair pore structure playing pivotal roles in defining its appearance. These features are influenced by various factors, including the species of the animal, its upbringing, age, and gender. Post-tannery, it’s referred as Top Grain Leather.
Full Grain leather refers to Top Grain leather that hasn’t undergone sanding or buffing, retaining its natural grain pattern and skin irregularities. It is prized for its higher quality, characterised by a surface with minimal colour alteration, a more natural appearance and a superior feel.
Resembling human fingerprints, animals of the same species and quality display diverse grain patterns, highlight the uniqueness of each piece of leather. Aniline, Nubuck, Suede (if the top grain reverse side is being used instead), and Pigmented Top Grain leathers are derived from Top Grain leather.
Conversely, Flesh Split is lower quality, with some countries prohibiting its labelling as Genuine Leather, unless explicitly stated as Split Leather. Post-tannery, both Drop and Bottom splits are known as “split leather” or “Suede”. For layman clarity, “split” should denote the less stable lower layer of the leather.
Coated Split, Polyurethane (PU) and Laminated leathers are characterised by a surface film applied onto split leathers. While they may visually resemble Top Grain, they lack its tear resistance and tactile qualities. Additionally, they feel colder and stiffer compared to Top Grain leather. However, they are known for being easy to clean and maintain.
Bonded Leather.
Also called Reconstituted Leather or Blended Leather, Bonded Leather is made from leather fibres (leather shaving found in tanneries) and binders. Often found in book covers, floor and wall panels, it typically appears in the lower end of the furniture market.
Its surface features embossed hair pores, while the material below consists of bonded leather fibres. Notably, it can be easily torn with fingers due to its less durable construction.
Bonded Leather cannot be sold as “Genuine Leather”, even genuine leather fibres is used.
Picture Credit: Colourlock® International.
Conclusion
We’ve learned that leathers can be categorised into Top Grain, Split, and Artificial leathers. When shopping for genuine leather, its crucial to ask, “Excuse me, is this Top Grain Leather?” rather than just “Is this Genuine Leather?”. This distinction helps in avoiding disappointments related to wear and tear that don’t meet our expectations.
In the next chapter, we will delve into different types of leather finishes and how their characteristics impact care and maintenance. Understanding these terms will further equip you to make informed decisions and properly care for your leather good.
Picture Credit: Colourlock® International.
DID YOU KNOW…
Napa leather, originally named after the Napa Valley in California, USA, was initially used for glove clothing leather due to its smooth and supple softness. Today, it’s synonymous with smooth and soft full grain leather with aniline and semi-aniline finishes. However, in Portugal, “Napa” refers to artificial leather.