Pigmented Top Grain.
High Qualtiy Non-Porous Top Grain Leather.
Also known as Finished leather, the term “Pigmented Top Grain” offers a more precise description of this surface colour coated top grain leather.
Picture: Although partially covered by pigment colour, hair pores on this lambskin are still visible.
Technically speaking, Pigmentation is the process of finishing a drum-dyed leather by coating its surface with a layer of binder-pigment mixture. Nowadays, these colours are water-based, and additives such as soft grip are included to give the leather more natural feel.
Pigmented Top Grain leather feels colder and firmer than Porous leathers but is easier to cleaner and maintain. While hair pores are clearly visible in Porous leathers, they are less distinguishable in Pigmented Top Grain due a layer of colour coat. However, this lowers its breathability and tactile properties.
Pigmented Top Grain leather is more durable and stain-resistant, making it suitable for automotive interiors, furniture, fashion items, shoes and motorcycle suits.
Corrected Grain.
Durable Non-Porous Top Leather.
Hair pores are completely invisible due to the thick coat of colour. However, it is still classified as top grain leather.
On the other hand, Coated Split leather resembles Corrected Grain and is sometimes sold as Corrected Grain leather.
To make skin damages invisible and create a uniform surface, grain side of the leather is first sanded, then goes through a roller colour coater and followed by grain embossing.
This is how Corrected Grain leather is finished. It feels less prestigious, stiffer and colder due to the thick colour layer and the compressed fibre from embossing. It is less breathable than Pigmented Top Grain.
Hides with visible blemishes are given a second life with this finishing, helping to reduce wastage in leather production. Corrected Grain offers uniformed appearance, which is a desired quality for some designs, and is easier to care for and maintenance.
Patent Leather.
Glossy Non-Porous Top Grain.
Patent Leather is a grain-free leather which has been high gloss-finished or covered with glossy, mirror-like smooth film.
Picture: Hair pores remain visible on a high-gloss finished leather.
Picture Credit: Colourlock® International.
The origins of Patent Leather can be traced back to ancient Egypt, when a technique called “faience” was used to glaze ceramic surfaces. This technique was later used on leather to create a shiny effect. In ancient Greece and Rome, Patent Leather was widely used in shoes and clothing to create a luxurious and eye-catching appearance.
During 18th and 19th century, new techniques were developed to create the glossy finish, including application of oil paints and polishing with glass paste. Since then, Patent Leather has seen been widely used in fashion industry.
Traditionally, Patent Leather was worn on special occasions, so the wear and tear did not develop quickly. Today, it is being used in everyday shoes, wallets and bags, making wear and tear more noticeable.
Foil Laminated Leather.
Robust Wax Aniline.
In foil laminated Patent Leather, leather is coated with a glossy, mirror-like film that completely covers the hair pores, resulting in a lack of breathability.
Picture Credit: Colourlock® International.
As high-gloss layer covers the entire Patent Leather’s surface, care products cannot penetrate to reach leather fibres. For same reason, Patent Leather doesn’t need oil or grease to preserve. Therefore, cleaning patent leather with a damp cloth is sufficient.
Patent Leather is prone to dye transfer. It shouldn’t be stored in dark bags, plastic bags, nor should it be in contact with other leather bags. Transferred dyes can penetrate these high-gloss finish or lamination, and recovery is unlikely. For ballpoint pen marks, there is a small chance of removal if dye is has not penetrated through the finish.
The high gloss finish or the glossy film of old Patent Leather can decay and become sticky over time. Other than cleaning with a leather cleaner or cleaning spirit, which may reduce the stickiness if the condition is not too bad, there is no solution for this damage.
Glazed Leather
A particular high gloss finish can be achieved with strong friction and pressure carried out by a glazing machine. This is a laborious process, which increases the cost of production. A final waterproofing is often required to make leather water-repellent.
Glazed Crocodile Leather. Picture Credit: Colourlock® International.
Conclusion
Now, we can distinguish the remaining members of top grain leathers: Pigmented Top Grain, Corrected Grain and Patent Leather. Despite being stiffer and colder, they are considered the workhorse class of genuine leather, with exception of Patent Leather where its finishing is more prone to wear and tear.
It’s also crucial to note that Coated Split, derived from flesh split, is occasionally misrepresented and sold as Corrected Grain.
In the next chapter, we will explore synthetic and artificial leathers as the distinctions between top grain these materials begin to blur. Understanding these leathers will aid in recognising various finishes and selecting appropriate care and maintenance methods.
Picture Credit: Colourlock® International.
DID YOU KNOW…
Brain tanning, historically practised by North American Indigenous peoples, involved using smoke for preservation, resulting in Buckskin or “Indian Leather.”
Today, it’s rarely practised, giving rise to the saying “Every animal has enough brain to preserve its own hide, except Giraffe and Teenager.”