How to read this Leather Care Guide Book.
Each chapter in this guidebook is crafted to give you a solid foundation in various aspects of leather care.
Next to each Chapter Cover, you'll find a brief introduction, followed by a scroll-down list highlighting the key takeaways. If you want to dive deeper, simply click on the Chapter Cover to explore the full content, complete with fascinating leather trivia.
Chapters 1-5 are accessible on this site, while Chapters 6-10 are best enjoyed in our free downloadable leather care guidebook. For a seamless reading experience, we encourage you to download the full guidebook to access all chapters.
If you have any questions or feedback, feel free to reach out to us at pang@leathercareclinic.com.sg. We’ll be sharing Q&A on our Facebook page, so be sure to follow us there.
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Chapter 1 Introduction - What is Leather.
Leather, a product of transformation, embodies resilience, durability, and timeless elegance. Derived from various animal hides, including unconventional sources like chicken feet and fish skin, leather has been prized for centuries for its strength and beauty.
Tanning, the cornerstone of leather production, preserves animal skins and elevates them to a durable material. Across millennia, diverse tanning methods have emerged, from ancient practices like vegetable tanning dating 4,000 years to the fats and oils method used since around 6,000 BC.
Today, chrome tanning reigns as the predominant method, valued for its efficiency in yielding soft, supple leather. However, traditional tanning methods retain their allure, connecting us to our ancestral heritage and a reverence for craftsmanship.
In this chapter, we explore leather’s definition, properties, and enduring appeal as a versatile and timeless material. Join us as we unravel the mysteries of leather and discover the artistry that has shaped its evolution and throughout history.
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Only Top Grain Leather deserves the “Genuine Leather” title; because it’s authentic – natural, durable and boasting its own unique grain and pores patterns.
Thick leathers are usually split into Top Grain Split and Bottom Split. Sometimes, a middle layer can be derived from Top Grain Split and is called Drop Split.
Top Grain Leather showcases superior haptic qualities and offers excellent tear resistance. However, we must caution against Split Leathers like Coated Split, Laminated and PU. While they may resemble the real deal, they lack the cosiness, breathability and tear resistance of Top Leather. Plus, they can feel stiff and cold.
Bonded Leather shouldn’t be masquerade as Genuine Leather. It’s prone to tearing and doesn’t hold up like the real thing.
Chapter 2 Introduction - Porous Leather.
Leather finishing determines cleaning method, what type of treatment used, and the restoration process. The saying “what’s sauce for the goose is sauce for the gander” does not apply here: although they may originate from same Top Grain Leather, what works on Pigmented Leather will actually damage Aniline, Nubuck, Suede.
There are two important colouring methods in leather finishing: Drum Dyeing and Pigmentation.
1. Drum Dyeing: This process involves tumbling leather in a rotating drum immersed in dye. The dye penetrates the leather, resulting in rich, deep colours.
2. Pigmentation: After drum dyeing, leather can be coated with a pigment colour on the top surface. This method creates a uniform appearance and adds a protective layer.
These processes result in two main types of leather: Non-Porous (Pigmented Leather and Corrected Grains) and Porous (Aniline, Nubuck, Suede). Porous leathers are natural and often highly priced but requires meticulous care. In contrast, Non-Porous leathers, with their surface colouring coat, are durable and easier to maintain.
In this chapter, we will explore what are the types of leather finishing derived from Porous leather, its individual characteristic and properties. Join us as we identify the royalties of leather family.
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Aniline is considered the royalty in leathers, as less than 5% of delivered hides are deemed fit for processing into Aniline. Only flawless hides are selected.
Aniline that is finished with waxes or oils is known as Vintage Leather. This robust antique looking leather is also referred as oiled leather.
Semi-Aniline is thinly coated with colour to for protection while retaining the natural grain pattern, hair pores and tactile feel of aniline. Semi-Aniline should be considered as Porous leather as Pigmented Top Grain is sometimes incorrectly labelled and sold as one.
Nubuck is a type of aniline leather with a velvety texture, achieved by lightly sanding the surface to create its distinctive, soft finish.
Pull Up leather is Nubuck variant of oiled leather. These terms, Vintage and Pull up leathers, are used interchangeable today.
Suede comes in 3 variants: reverse side of top grain, drop or middle split and bottom split. Among them, reverse side of top grain is considered the highest quality.
Chapter 3 Introduction - Non Porous Leather.
In previous chapter, two important colouring methods were mentioned, one of which is pigmentation. This method involves coating the leather with a pigment colour on the top surface after drum dyeing.
Non-Porous leathers, as they are sometimes called, feel stiffer and less warm than Porous leathers. However, this colour coat also provides a protective quality; they are more durable, stain-resistant, and permanently water repellent.
One key advantage of surface coated colours is a wider variety of finishes available. Luminous colours, high gloss and even metallic finish can be offered, providing designers with more options.
In this chapter, we will find out who are distinct members of Non-Porous leathers, each unique characteristic and properties that make them noteworthy in their own right.
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While not as discernible as in Porous leathers, hair pores remain visible on Pigmented Top Grain Leather, albeit less so. Additionally, it exhibits reduced breathability.
Corrected Grain, despite its thick colour coating and embossed grain, retains its classification as a top grain leather. However, the colour coat completely conceals its hair pores.
Coated Split bears resemblance to Corrected Grain and is occasionally misidentified and sold as such.
Patent Leather is a high gloss finished or glossy film coated non-porous leather. It is commonly used in fashion.
Chapter 4 Introduction - Split Leather.
A thick leather is split to make it more pliable for manufacturing into products. Shaving to required thickness involves more work and wastage, while bottom split can be further processed as alternatives to Pigmented Top Grain and Corrected Grain leathers.
With modern technology, it can be a challenge to differentiate them. Therefore, it would be fair that there should be some labelling requirements that providing information for buying, so that consumers can distinguish the lower quality bottom split from higher quality top grain split.
In general, split leather is not a bad leather; an embossed split leather with thick middle split can have relatively good tear resistant and durability. However, it can be mistakenly sold as a Pigment Top Grain or Corrected Grain leathers, leading to disappointment when its wear and tear do not match the performance of top grain leathers.
In this chapter, we will learn about the types of split leather finishing, its individual characteristic and properties.
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Split leathers are processed to produce Coated Split, Embossed Split, PU and Laminated leathers.
Split leathers should not be termed as Genuine Leather as they do not contain tanned animal skin, even though their fibre structure is entirely intact.
Split leathers are made to mimic the appearance of top grain, making it challenge to differentiate between them.
Processed Split leathers are easy to clean and enable more affordable and elegant designs. While they are not durable, they are inexpensive.
PU and Laminated leathers are colder and stiffer than Coated Split and Embossed Split leathers. However, they are well-suited for high-traffic usage where frequent disinfection is required. They are also not breathable.
Chapter 5 Introduction - Artificial Leather.
It is difficult to determine precisely when Artificial Leather was invented, but it first appeared around 100 years ago. Early versions involved coated textiles designed to mimic the appearance of top grain leather and were used in valuable items like camera.
Over time, Artificial Leather has been primarily used for cost saving purposes, as advancements in materials and manufacturing techniques have significantly improved the quality and variety of synthetic leathers available today.
Today, there is a stigma associated with Artificial Leather when it is marketed as genuine leather. Terms like Leatherette, Coskin , Napalon Leather , Pellissimo can mislead consumers into thinking they are in forms of top grain or split leathers, as these names suggest higher value. In some parts of China, Artificial Leather is known as PU Leather, while Portuguese, it is referred to as napa.
In this coming chapter, we will learn Artificial Leather’s properties, how to differentiate them and discuss about Vegan Leather.
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Artificial Leather has successfully mimicked top grain visually: Grains can be embossed, hair pores can be impressed and reverse side can be glued with leather fibres. It can also be microperforated to enhance its breathability.
Due to its cost saving and construction, Artificial Leather is well-suited for open weather and high traffic usage where frequent replacement and cleaning with strong agents are expected.
Differentiating Artificial and Top Grain leathers can be difficult even for experts. Therefore, accurate labelling is required.
The term, Vegan Leather, does not mean the material is environmentally friendly as it is often made from microplastic.
Leather Alternative differs from Vegan Leather; It is about processing organic material into leather substitute.
Chapter 6 Introduction - Leather Quality.
It is difficult even for expert to identify every defect and judge the quality of leather by naked eyes, let alone regular consumer. Experience is needed to detect the differences in quality, while majority of the criteria can only be tested in laboratory.
Price is a good barometer for quality; as the cliché goes buy cheap, buy twice. Branded products usually undergone extensive tests to ensure quality as these manufacturers endeavour to produce quality end products that match their brandings. For inexpensive products, the leather in most cases is not valuable.
In this chapter, we will learn some of the factors affecting leather quality to manufacturing processes that increase the production cost. These understandings will elevate our leather appreciation as we search for the answer to “What is Quality Leather?”.
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Natural factors such as age, gender and nutrition can affect the Leather Quality. Environment factors such as climate and free range can influence too.
Natural Markings & injuries such as Neck Wrinkles, Slaughter House Cutting, Pitch Fork, Fire Brand, and Dung Marks can affect the Leather Quality.
Skills and experience of a tanner play an important part in leather production, particularly where faced with damaged skin.
On the other end, manufacture’s quality requirements determine the end product’s quality. Automotive leather is typically more uniform and stiffer, while fashion is selected for softness. Manufacture also employ grain matching to produce highest quality products in top price segment.
Chapter 7 Introduction - Caveat Emptor.
Currently, there is no legal obligations on retailers, importers and manufacturers to declare types of leather finish used in their products. An accurately labelled leather would provide crucial information during purchase and after-sales care.
For example, particularly in automotive and furniture, contact points can be upholstered with top grain while non-contact points can be covered with split or artificial leathers. This difference can be even difficult for expert to detect at first glance.
Consumers are often unable to distinguish the difference in leather quality and typically make purchases based on designs, brands and faith. However, disappointment can arise when wear and tear do not meet expectation. Therefore, when purchasing leather products, the phrase “Caveat Emptor” or “Buyer Beware” is highly relevant. Understanding the nuances of leather care can help you make informed decisions and avoid common pitfalls.
In this chapter, we will delve into the essence of leather knowledge, providing information on differentiating top grain and split leathers, as well as tips on how to protect ourselves when in doubts.
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Hairs pores can provide clue to leather finish type, but beware as some of embossed pores impressions are really challenging to distinguish. Besides looking at pores pattern and size regularities, pay attention to colour shades between the pores and its surrounding.
Pinching leather can provide some idea but this analysis requires some experience. In general, artificial leather feels paper-thin while the denser fibre of top grain feels thicker to pinch.
Surface colour coats are usually monochrome and can have glossy and metallic effects. Aniline appears in limited range of yellow, blue, red, brown, black and usually have a satin gloss. In Vintage Leather, colours gradient between lighter and darker shades while for surface colour coated lookalike, it is either a colour film or dark colour would be applied over lighter one.
A cross section view would provide most information about the leather finish type. This view would also show the leather quality as the density of fibre structure can be observed.
Identifying through tactile requires probably the most experience as well as knowledge as different finish feels differently. As well-made split leather can feel more luxurious than a low-quality top grain, tactile alone is insufficient to differentiate the leather finishes.
Chapter 8 Introduction - Pitfalls During Purchase.
Ideally, there should be set standards to determine the quality of leather, along with labelling regulated by local authorities.
This is especially important regarding the use of split leathers on different parts of a product. When the surface of a split leather is embossed with grains, it becomes challenging for most consumers and even experts to distinguish the difference.
Set standards are essential for legal disputes, as there is currently no legal obligation on retailers, importers and manufacturers to provide accurate information about their leather products. Without these standards, leather quality remains open to interpretation.
With regulated labelling, consumers would be equipped with information about the type and quality of leather, enabling them to make comparison before purchase. As most of us buy on brand and design, disappointment arises when tear and tear fail to meet our expectations. In this chapter, we will discuss some of the pitfalls to avoid during purchase.
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Seating Traffic vs. Duration: Non-porous leather is ideal for frequent use, while porous leather is better for extended seating durations.
Functionality vs. Aesthetic: For homes with children or pets, consider split or artificial leather, which is more affordable for frequent replacements. Non-porous leather is a better choice in areas where spills are likely.
Budget Consideration: If replacing your sofa every 5 years is acceptable, split leather offers a good balance of quality and cost. Top grain leather, while pricier, is more durable and ages gracefully.
Dark vs. Light Colors: Dark leather hides dirt and is suitable for high-traffic areas. Black leather, in particular, is more cost-effective to restore when faded. Light-colored leather is more elegant but prone to dye transfer.
Location Matters: Aniline, Nubuck, and Suede are sensitive to UV rays and high humidity, making them unsuitable for areas near pools or gardens.
Visual Inspection: When buying a display set, check for consistency in leather pieces, as different qualities of leather age differently.
Understand Labeling: Labels contain important information about the type of leather and finish used.
Ask the Right Questions: When shopping for a genuine leather sofa, inquire if all surfaces are made of top grain leather, rather than just asking if it’s genuine leather. Follow up by asking if split leather is used.
Discuss Maintenance: Different leather finishes require different maintenance. Discussing this with the retailer can reveal their product knowledge.
Record Details on the Invoice: Ensure a detailed description of the leather type and specifications is included on the invoice for clarity and proof in case of a complaint.
Chapter 9 Introduction - Care, Maintenance and Restorations.
Leather is a beautiful and natural material. By following basic maintenance practices, it remains durable and retains its beauty for a long time.
Generally, leather products can be enjoyed without expert advice. However, questions may arise about whether the leather is genuine, its quality, damage from carelessness, production issues, incorrect repair, and improper cleaning and maintenance.
It’s important to note that not every expert knows all possible problems, as each specialist focuses on different areas within the leather industry. While this guide book aims to cover a broad range of topics, it is challenging to address all aspects of leather care comprehensively.
In this long chapter, we will discuss about the Care, Maintenance & Restoration in broad grouping of Aniline, Nubuck & Suede, Vintage & Pull Up, Semi Aniline, Pigmented Top Grain & Corrected Grain and Coated Split leather. Laminated and artificial leathers are not discussed as regular wipe down addresses most of their maintenance needs, and replacing or their re-upholstery is more cost effective than restoration.
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All porous leathers are UV sensitive and to prevent colour transfer, avoid placing directly against coloured rough surface.
Once porous leather is stained, there is little chance of successful removal. Consider cover for porous headrest.
Never rub on stains which cannot be removed as this will increase severity and area of damage.
Avoid steam cleaning on leather. If necessary, do not repeat cleaning on same areas as this will build up heat and water.
Never use aggressive solvents such as acetone, nail polish remover, medicated oil or heavy degreaser. They can cause irreversible damage.
When cleaning leather, especially porous leathers, avoid wet cleaning and ensure stitch lines are not wet by cleaning solutions. Do not dry wet leather under direct sunlight or with hairdryer. Use cold air to accelerate drying.
Use soft sponge or leather brush. Do not use melamine foam. Use circular gentle buffing stroke, rather than straight stroke.
Check if cleaner, treatment and protection is suitable for leather finish. What works for coat split leather may not work for genuine leather, what works for non-porous may not work for porous leathers.
Porous leathers commonly required UV protection and waterproofing. Non-porous usually require protection against dye transfer and wear abrasion.
Restoration may not be the cost-efficient solution when comes to extending leather product service life. The remedy may be worse the problem.
Rich sentimental and historical values leather products should not be use or restored.
There are considerations before restoration: impact over value, resale marketability, authenticity and perception.
High humidity, high ambient temperature and poor air ventilation encourages mould growth. Vinegar essence can kill mould but its low pH value also encourages future growth. Do treat leather after cleaning.
Fatty spue, often confused with mould due its white powdery appearance, is rare occurrence when excessive fats are released by leather. This can be easily cleaned by apply gentle heat on leather to melt these fats and wipe the surface.
Chapter 10 Introduction - Environmental & Sustainability.
Leather has been a cornerstone of human civilisation for centuries. However, more and more consumers are concerned with sustainability of the products they buy: fast fashion’s mass production and wastage vs durability design that builds on reparability and refresh ability. Today, the industry’s impact on the environment and society has increasingly come under scrutiny.
This chapter examines the challenges faced by leather sector and highlight the importance of sustain sourcing, ethical production, and transparent business practices. By understand the complexities of leather production and consumption, this chapter aims to empower environmental and social implications of leather and to inspire them to make informed choices.
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To lower carbon footprint, tanneries are sourcing chemicals more responsibly, reducing energy consumption and repurposing leather waste into other materials.
Genuine Leather is biodegradable, typically breaking down within 50 years, compared to synthetic materials, which can take up to 500 years.
Leather production that meets strict environmental and sustainability standards is awarded are certifications such as ZDHC, The Blue Angel and DGM Golden M.
A new wave of leather alternatives made from organic materials, including mushrooms, long pineapple leaf fibres, and grape waste from wine production, is emerging.